Ancient athlete cleaning himself with a strigil, Greek kylix painting, around 425 BCE
How to deep clean your pores without overdrying or traumatising your skin? That is no easy task. Despite the abundance of cleansing products that the market has to offer in the form of gels, foams, gommages, peels and scrabs, you may never see the desired effect.
There is, however, no need to despair as oil cleansing can offer you exactly the results you are after. While this is now a widely accepted method, it is worth reiterating the oils’ cleansing abilities, which have served our ancestors in traditional use for millennia.
Like attracts like
It is a fact that oil effectively removes dust and other oil particles that may have accumulated on your face throughout the day. It is also able to remove even the most stubborn makeup and SPF products. At the same time, it acts to normalise sebum production and reduce inflammation, which leads to breakouts. In addition, oils create a natural occlusive layer, which protects the skin from dehydration and hence keeps it well moisturised.
It is no wonder then that oil cleansing has been so good at standing the test of time. It is a must in our founder Tatiana Korsakova’s evening beauty routine. Why is this method so effective? To put it simply, using another non-polar solvent such as oil is the best way to get rid of excess sebum. This basic chemical concept was already known to ancient Greeks, for whom hygiene was of paramount importance.
Some ancient history
The existence of the oil cleansing method in ancient Greece is known to us from the records outlining their bathing rituals in thermal springs. It was during the process of steaming that a mixture of olive oil and ash was applied generously to the skin. It was then removed using a special tool called strigil, a curved scraper made of iron or bronze. This was an equally popular cleansing method among athletes who applied olive oil prior to exercising and then removed it along with a layer of sand and dust using a strigil. The procedure typically left their bodies clean and well looked after.
The approach of the Greek athletes was, however, considered impractical by ancient Romans, who used strigils exclusively in spa settings. Once olive oil was rubbed into the skin, Romans would then proceed through a series of hot and chilled chambers. Strigil was used at the very end of the treatment to remove both oil and sweat. The tool was popular across the all stratums of society, from the plebs to the senators and emperors themselves.
Modern oil cleansing methods
1/ Hydrophilic cleansing oils
The oil cleansing method got a second wave of fame in the 21st century. It can be largely attributed to the growing trend for Korean cosmetics, associated with popularising such new beauty innovations as BB creams and snail extract patches, but also such an effective new makeup removing product as hydrophilic oil. Its cult status quickly grew with fans of Asian beauty products and double cleansing.
The oil contains a surfactant emulsifier, meaning that it can bind the molecules of oil and water. Due to these qualities, it has the ability to successfully remove dirt from the surface of the skin without leaving a greasy residue. Hydrophilic oil retains the cleansing qualities of other oils but is easier to rinse, saving time and providing a quality treatment.
Our top picks
Tata Harper
Nourishing Oil Cleanser
This hydrophilic oil is a perfect match for anyone with dry and ageing skin. Each ingredient is natural and there for a reason. Vitamins, A, C and E as well as Omega-3s are essential for maintaining a healthy epidermis. A powerful cocktail of minerals and plant oils! Seed extracts of jojoba, apricot and argan work to moisturize, protect and fortify the skin barrier.
Maya Chia
The Great Cleanse
Due to the small size of its chia and sunflower seed molecules this product can penetrate deep into the skin, helping cleanse blocked pores and remove even the thickest layer of makeup. A great gift for anyone with sensitive skin and rosacea. The essential oils of lavender, Roman and German chamomile calm the skin, reduce redness and strengthen the blood vessels at the same time.
MOSS
Revele Pore Purifying Emulsifying Oil Cleanser
If frequent breakouts are the bane of your life, this is a product worth trying. The high amounts of linoleic acid contained in its formula help fight skin imperfections. The zinc in pumpkin oil balances the production of sebum, while perilla oil and rosemary provide an anti-inflammatory and healing effect.
Pai Skincare
Light Work Rosehip Cleansing Oil
A true staple when it comes to hydrophilic oils, with thousands of positive reviews. Olive, sunflower and rosehip oils rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids (Omega-3, 6, 7 and 9) protect and regenerate the surface of the epidermis. A mixture of orange, jasmine and basil essential oils adds an amazingly invigorating scent.
MARA
Chia + Moringa Algae Enzyme Cleansing Oil
MARA is a multifunctional cleansing oil that will not only purify your skin but also provide mild exfoliation with fruit enzymes. The moisturising algae and softening chia and moringa oils make the skin smooth, radiant and hydrated. Needs shaking before use.
2/ Leave-in oils
Leave-in cleansing oils are, however, just as effective. When used correctly, they help tackle excessive sebum production, dryness and blackheads. While hydrophilic oils are usually washed off with water, pure oils require a towel or a tissue. It is not for everyone, but - if you do not mind the mess - it might be the best method for you.
Make note of our step-by-step guide:
- Apply the product to your dry face.
- Massage for 1-2 minutes.
- Remove the oil using a warm damp towel by pressing it to your face for several seconds at a time until the towel cools down.
- Wipe down any excess oil.
The results are bound to be incredible from the get-go, with many women ditching their usual routine in favour of this oil method.
Our top picks
Max and Me
Purity + Grace Facial Cleansing Oil
Its high concentration of apricot kernel oils nourishes and softens the skin, while tamanu oil restores and protects the skin from sunlight. A combination of sea buckthorn and marula oils will suit even the most sensitive couperose-prone skin and reduce the appearance of vascular veins.
MV Skintherapy
9 Oil Radiance Tonic
Somewhat misleadingly named a tonic, this is in fact a cleansing oil, and a very intriguing one for that matter. Its formula is packed with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory essential oils of bitter orange, geranium and lavender, making it indispensable for those with a dull tired complexion in need of some TLC to bring back that glow.
De Mamiel
Pure Calm Cleansing Dew
The essential oils of fragonia, geranium, cypress and blue tansy provide aromatherapeutic benefits. The sensory mood boost aside, this will help achieve clear and silky soft skin which glows from within thanks to antioxidant- and vitamin-rich prickly pear and raspberry oils. The oil is bound to protect your skin from the adverse influence of urban pollution.
Votary
Cleansing Oil — Rose Geranium & Apricot
This cleansing oil from the up-and-coming British brand Votary will suit those looking for a product with aromatherapeutic qualities. A combination of apricot and grapeseed oils and jojoba will remove all impurities and makeup, including mascara. The formula will make the skin clean, radiant and healthy without the feeling of tightness, dryness or irritation. A classic product for the roll-up-your-sleeves second cleansing method and comes with its own handy towel.
Blüh Alchemy
Cleansing Oil
American brand Blüh Alchemy’s formulations are full of pleasant surprises. This particular cleansing product is of no exception. Sesame oil helps when it comes to breakouts. Cockatoo plum and elderberry bring radiance and even out tone. Pumpkin seed oil provides a calming effect. This is more than just a cleanser. Think of it as superfood for your skin. The result is a softer smoother skin with a healthy complexion.