
Image: @charleenweiss
When it comes to identifying the causes of our skin concerns, we typically blame such external factors as UV exposure, pollution and a poorly managed skincare routine. Are you experiencing dryness and flakiness? It must be the central heating. Are you breaking out? Thank that cake you had last night. Got dull complexion? Lack of sleep is to blame.
But there are times when lifestyle and diet are not the root of all evil. There is no denying that pollution is harmful to our skin, but neither should it be seen as the main culprit of dull skin that lost its natural radiance. Our mental state has as much to do with it.
Regular stress, recurring anxiety and burnout can all lead to acute chronic issues as well as early wrinkles. If even the most trusted products no longer seem to treat your skin concerns, it is definitely time to shift your focus from the contents of your makeup bag to the state of your mental health. More on this below.
In talking about stress, a basic introduction to our biology is a must. Not all stress is equally harmful to our health. Short-term cortisol release refines our senses, increases clarity of thoughts and can even stimulate collagen production which aids in wound healing.
According to skincare chemist Laurent Nogueira, micro stress positively activates the cells but the same cannot be said of its long-term effects. Chronic stress provides a slow but steady release of cortisol into the bloodstream. It is this kind of influence that can manifest itself in fine lines and other early signs of ageing.
Chronic stress impacts our bodies in their entirety, influencing the heart and blood vessels, lowering our immunity and overwhelming our nervous system. When stress takes over our lives, dull complexion is actually the least of our worries, albeit the most visible one.
In a nutshell, cortisol and skin do not get along. Cortisol blocks the production of beneficial skin oils and lipids, which in turn has an adverse effect on our skin. The epidermal barrier is the first to suffer as the first line of defence against external allergens, pollution and other environmental factors. Take it down and our skin becomes more sensitive and experiences a whole range of issues.
The role of our skin barrier is not just limited to protecting us from external influence. It is also a natural layer that traps moisture inside the epidermis. So, when things like cortisol disrupt its functioning, it can suffer from what is referred to as transepidermal water loss. Its symptoms include dull and lifeless skin, which no magic potion can rescue.
At the same time, cortisol stimulates hyperproduction of sebum, resulting in congested skin and breakouts, especially in oily and combination skin types. Our natural instinct is of course to remove this excess shine and this is where we set ourselves up for failure.
The trouble is that while our epidermis remains deprived of moisture, any harsh cleansing and exfoliating treatments will only exacerbate the problem by stripping the skin of its natural acid mantle. Whitney Bowe, dermatologist and author of The Beauty of Dirty Skin, compares it to depriving fertile soil of its nutrients and then expecting a good harvest.
In an ideal scenario, the skin’s microbiome (i.e. an ecosystem consisting of a trillion organisms) is self-sufficient in supporting its health. For instance, some microbes live off our skin’s sebum and dead cells, contributing to a natural process of cleansing and exfoliation. Others produce peptides and ceramides, which increase the skin’s elasticity and hydration.
Unfortunately, the circumstances that enable this well-oiled mechanism are often far from ideal. The adverse effects of the environmental factors on our skin call for additional support in the form of skincare. Having said that, exhaust fumes, poor diet and heigh levels of cortisol all have their say in this as well.
Cortisol is known to prompt the production of “bad” bacteria – such as Cutibacterium acnes associated with acne – and the suppression of “good” ones. The result is a less diverse microbiome and a compromised immune system.
Chronic stress leads to a reduction in the natural activity of our internal antioxidants. Higher levels of cortisol alert the rest of the body, locking it into a survival mode, which is prioritised over all other processes. Understandably, fighting against free radicals is then the least of our worries.
So how does this manifest on our skin? According to Dr Bowe, when free radicals target our DNA, it leads to cancer; when they target elastin and collagen, it leads to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles; and when free radicals target lipids, it leads to dehydration, damage to the skin’s barrier and, ultimately, acne.
As much as some manufacturers might try to convince you otherwise, even the most expensive serums containing hyaluronic acid, peptides and antioxidants are powerless in the face of cortisol. The best solution is to tackle the root cause and address the source of stress itself.
The good news is that, unlike skincare treatments, internal balance is affordable to anyone. It can take the form of a morning meditation or a regular grounding technique. The important thing is to let go of tension in the body and anxiety in the mind. The opportunities to do so are endless: be it breathwork, aromatherapy or a simple walk in nature. Let your favourite beauty rituals (calming masks, massages or spa treatments) come to your rescue.
But do not let yourself get too carried away with obsessive self-care. Dermatologists recommend removing products that contain harsh ingredients like retinol or salicylic acid at the first signs of encroaching stress. Leave-in treatments containing essential oils are also not advisable, given their ability to disrupt the skin’s barrier, cause irritation and even an allergic reaction.
Stay away from too much experimentation with new products until the dust has settled. Any drastic changes in your beauty routine at this time will only stress your skin’s barrier out even more. Your skin will thank you for products containing hydrolipids, ceramides or fatty acids, which help restore its acid mantle.